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  • Rex 9:59 pm on November 29, 2010 Permalink | Reply
    Tags: Cooking, , thanksgiving, turkey   

    Turkey Stock and Soup 

    Contrary to popular tradition, I carved my Thanksgiving turkey on Tuesday. I carved the breasts from the bone and separated the wings, legs, and thighs at the joints. My Thanksgiving turkey was cooked two different ways: a rolled breast roast I saw on serious eats and a faux sous vide method for the legs and thighs.

    Stock

    All of this freed my turkey carcass up for stock. I roughly hacked the turkey bones into hunks that were around 4″. I hacked my way through any large bones to expose them to the simmering water. I also deboned the turkey thighs and chopped these bones in half. I then threw them in my largest stock pot and covered them with water. I brought this water up to a very slow simmer and left it there for 90 minutes or so.

    stock by Kristin Brenemen (flickr)

    Not mine, but close


    After 90 minutes I added to this stock: 2 each: roughly chopped carrot and celery stalks, almost 1 tablespoon whole peppercorns, 2 small branches each of thyme and tarragon, 2 garlic cloves, lightly smashed with the side of a knife. I also added one large leek, I cut off most of the green and then cut it lengthwise to rinse out any dirt between the layers. All of this I left in the pot to simmer for a good hour. (good because it smelled amazing). I skimmed any weird foam off of of the top of this stock with a tea strainer. I also use the steaming basket that came with my stock pot sitting on top to keep the stock contents below the surface of the water.

    After the ingredients had given up as much as they could, I strained the stock and brought it to a boil to cook it down to around a half gallon. I poured my stock into two quart mason jars. Any leftover I drank and it was fantastic. It took willpower to not drink the rest.

    Soup

    One of my mason jars went into stuffing and gravy. The other was reserved for soup. The stock had formed a thin layer of fat on the top. I had to break this up with a spoon and strain it out of the stock. I put this fat in the bottom of my stock pot with a tablespoon of butter. To this I added 1 leek cut small. Sprinkle 1 teaspoon kosher salt over your leeps. I let that soften a little and then add 1 white yam, diced small, I had a white yam on hand, you could also use a sweet potato. Add 2 carrots and 2 celery stalks, both diced small. Finally I smashed and roughly minced 2 garlic cloves and stirred them in. Keep this mixture on low and stir frequently until it is all soft. You want to make sure it doesn’t brown and get bitter on you. If it does, it isn’t the end of the world.

    At this point you can pour in your stock. I also added some boxed chicken stock I had on hand. Eventually I also added some water to bring the soup up to the volume I wanted. I added to my soup a small bunch of tarragon and thyme because I had them on hand. You could also use rosemary, sage or a bay leaf. I would only choose two of these and keep the amounts small. What really puts this soup over the top though is a nice cheese rind. Anything from a hard cheese, parmesan or asiago work really well. Just cut off the cheese rind in one large chunk and toss it in the pot. Finally, roughly chop a small handful parsley and toss into the soup.

    Let all of this simmer in your pot for a few minutes. Test it for flavor and add some salt and pepper if needed (at least a bit probably will be). At this point you can chop up any turkey leftovers and toss them in. You can even add skin bits, just make sure you dice them small. Now it is time to let the soup sit and slowly simmer. I would let it go for at least 30 minutes, 90 would be better. Half cover the pot with the lid, leaving a gap for some steam to escape.

    Dumplings

    My original idea for this soup was thick and chunky noodles. Basically well-shaped dumplings. Instead I decided to just do spooned-in dumplings. I’m glad we did, they were fantastic. I based my method on this Bobby Flay recipe on Food Network. Here goes:

    Warm up 1 cup of milk and 1 stick of butter in a medium pot until it starts to boil. At this point, kill the heat and whisk in 1/2 tsp salt and nutmeg. 1/2 tsp of pre-ground nutmeg or far less if you’re shaving it fresh. I only did a couple scrapes on my microplane of a nutmeg nut and I felt it was a tad too nutmegy. Slowly whisk in 1 cup flour, you will probably need to change to a wooden spoon when it thickens into a dough. Let this sit a minute once it is fully incorporated. After it cools a second, beat in 3 eggs, one at a time. This dough will be sticky.

    Thank Goodness for Turkey Soup (Book_Maiden on flickr)

    also not mine, was too hungry for pictures


    I found some greasy junk on top of my soup, so I scooped it out with the tea strainer. This took out most of the parsley but it had already added a lot of flavor. If you want more green, chop some more and add it while serving. My thought was that I didn’t want greasy dumplings. Spoon the dumpling batter into the simmering soup in 1-2tsp dollops. I found two spoons works best to get it into the pot. Let the dumplings cook for 20 minutes or until they are floating so high they want to come out of the soup.

    EAT. This was one of my favorite soups that I’ve made… ever. It made a lot of soup, but between Erin and I it was gone by lunchtime the next day.

     
    • Elizabeth 8:45 am on November 30, 2010 Permalink

      This sounds so good! I don’t ever think to make dumplings because we usually sop up soup with a whole lotta bread. Will have to try ‘em next time I make soup, though.

  • Rex 1:20 pm on July 4, 2010 Permalink | Reply
    Tags: Cooking, lolita, restaurant, travel   

    Lolita 

    Erin and I made a specific stop in Tremont outside of Cleveland this weekend to eat at Lolita. I called and made us 5:30 reservations, it was the only time that was available and seemed to fit into our schedule. We arrived in Tremont with barely enough time to park and walk to the restaurant.

    The meal was fantastic. We started with a ginger cocktail and a beets & ricotta appetizer that blew us away. Beets and orange zest and cheese. fantastic. The cocktail was gingery and not too sweet. I wanted two more, but I had to drive.
    Erin got a mushroom pizza with arugula, rosemary and robiola cheese. The robiola has a funky smell but the pizza was deelicious. My entre was the pork chop with creamy polenta, bacon, and some wilted greens that I forget. This was the best pork chop of my life. It was huge and perfectly cooked. I also received a side of brussel sprouts that were also fantastic. One thing I noticed was that all of our food had a char on it. The sprouts, pizza, and pork chop all had that bitter burnt char to them. Having said that, though, the flavors were awesomely balanced with other elements.

    The price kinda blew me away. Even with all that perfectly prepared food, our meal was under $50. This explains why the place was packed at 5:30.

    Now, a few weeks ago for Detroit Restaurant Week, Erin and I ate at Roast. Perhaps it was because of a poor menu choice, but I wasn’t very happy with my meal at Roast. I ordered the ‘beast of the day’, and ended up with just a plate full of pork. Now, I like meat as much as the next guy, but I can’t really get excited about a pile of pork, no matter how perfectly cooked it is. I feel like my waitress should have given me a heads up.

    I was definitely happier with my experience at Lolita. I look forward to trying it again, or maybe even securing a reservation at Lola. From our experience in Tremont, I’m excited to check out more of Cleveland.

     
  • Rex 3:34 pm on June 25, 2010 Permalink | Reply
    Tags: Cooking   

    Stuffed Hashbrowns 

    For some reason I got it into my head that I wanted to make hand-held hippie hash. (or is it hippy hash?) Apparently, hippie hash is an invention of the fleetwood diner here in ann arbor. It is hash browns fried with tomatoes, broccoli, mushroom and onions, and topped with feta cheese. I didn’t actually realize it was a home-spun creation until a google search for it, 5 minutes ago.

    ad hoc potato cakes

    Thomas Keller's Scallion Potato Cakes

    One of the things that inspired me were these hash browns from Thomas Keller’s Ad Hoc at Home. They looked so delightfully crispy and definitely something that could be hand-held. Also, reading the instructions, I could definitely see how I could adapt them to include hippy hash.

    Here is what I did, to much success:

    First, prepare the filling. One whole tomato, cut into a small dice. Lightly salt the tomato and set aside. A handful of trimmed broccoli, boiled for 2 minutes in salty water, remove from water and let cool. Take a handful of mushrooms and cut them into 1/2 inch pieces. Put 1/3 cup of small onion dice in a tablespoon or two of olive oil in a small skillet. Cook on medium heat until the onions are translucent. Add the mushrooms and a sprinkle of kosher salt. Toss and let cook until mushrooms are soft and remove from heat. At this point I also added some minced pea shoot microgreens, I had them on hand, and the extra heat in the pan softened them up. Strain the tomatoes and cut the broccoli into the smallest florets. Mix the tomatoes and the broccoli in with the onions and mushrooms and remove the pan from the heat. Crumble some feta cheese into small crumbles that is about 1/3 of a cup.

    For the potatoes: Peel three medium russet potatoes and grate them into a bowl of cold water using the medium coarse side of your box grater. I used a mesh strainer to strain the potatoes out of the water and rinse them slightly in cold water. I then pressed as much water as I could out of them. This could also be done with a salad spinner, or by laying them out on towels (paper or kitchen) and pressing the water out. Put the potatoes in a large bowl and spoon a few good spoonfuls of cornstarch around the edges of the bowl. For three potatoes you might need as much as 6 tablespoons of cornstarch. Toss this with a spoon or your hands to get the potatoes well coated.

    Heat a 12 inch cast iron skillet over medium heat. Add enough canola oil to coat the bottom of the pan. When the oil is shimmering, lower the heat and start assembling. Use your fingers to place bits of potato in the pan in a thin round layer. You only want about 1/4 inch of potatoes in the pan. On top of this put a single dense layer of the filling mixture. Then top with another layer of potatoes. Try not to press this together too much, Thomas Keller warns about pressing too hard because you want the potatoes to remain light. Turn the heat up a little and let this cook. If you notice the oil in the pan drying up, add more. It is essential that the potatoes fry and get brown and crispy. Don’t be afraid of letting these cook almost 10 minutes. Every time I’ve gotten impatient and flipped the potatoes early they are tan and pale, not golden brown and delicious. Even when you see brown bits of potato on the edges, wait another couple minutes. Carefully flip this potato cake over and cook another 7-8 minutes. Remove from the pan to a paper towel lined plate, or to a cooling rack. Let cool a few minutes before eating. Repeat with remaining potatoes and filling.

    Success

     
    • Debby Palmer 8:07 pm on June 30, 2010 Permalink

      OMG! My daughter – Megan Palmer – sent this to me. We’ve been making the Fleetwood Diner Hippy Hash for years – for swim teams, neighbors and friends. I am excited about trying this. We’ve learned to semi-cook potatoes in boiling water, and then draining and cooling them. We store them in the fridge, and then we are ready for hash-browns at the drop of a mandolin. I’m looking forward to trying this recipe!

    • Vivienne Armentrout 9:53 pm on July 1, 2010 Permalink

      This is a wonderful treatment, partly because it is so adaptable.

      You might like to know the rice griddlecakes recipe that I frequently adapt for current available bits of this and that. See http://myfoodtribe.blogspot.com/2009/12/rice-griddlecakes-for-leftovers.html

      Your site has lots of good stuff!

  • Rex 11:23 pm on May 27, 2010 Permalink | Reply
    Tags: beverage, Cooking, drinks, ginger, gingerbeer   

    Ginger Beer 

    Lately my cocktail of choice has been a Mamie Taylor. In conjunction with this, I’ve been seeking out my favorite non-alcoholic ginger ale to make it with. Sadly, my favorites contain HFCS, which I try to avoid. Thanks to inspiration from friends, I decided to try making it myself. Here’s my latest try.

    Get yourself one or two 2-liter bottles. The plastic ones that contain your favorite HFCS flavor work the best. Wash them out really well. You’ll also need a strainer, a funnel, a grater and some measuring cups.

    Scrape the skin off of a large knob of fresh ginger. Grate the ginger on your box grater with the coarsest (largest) side. You’ll need about 3oz of ginger per batch. Go ahead and use the stringy bits that are left behind while you’re grating. 3 oz of grated ginger is about 1/3 of a packed cup, if you don’t have a scale. (If you don’t own a scale, BUY ONE).

    Take 2/3rds of this grated ginger and put it in a small saucepan with 1/2 cup of water and 6oz of sugar. (6oz of sugar is about 3/4ths of a cup) Put this over medium heat and stir until the sugar is disolved. When you start to see some bubbles, take this off of the heat and cover. Let seep for 30 minutes.

    After 30 minutes, stir in the rest of your grated ginger. Cover and let sit another 30 minutes.

    While your syrup is soaking up ginger, fully juice one lemon. This should give you about 1/4 cup of juice. You’ll only need two tablespoons of lemon juice so you should have made two batches.

    For me, this works best with a 4-cup and a 2-cup measure. I put my strainer over the 4-cup measure and use the 2-cup measure to pour water. First I dump my ginger syrup into the strainer. I pour 2 cups of cold water into the pan to rinse it out and also pour this water over the strained ginger. At this point I pour two more cups of cold water into my measuring cup and whisk in 1/8 teaspoon active dry yeast. I let this yeast sit to dissolve a little into the water. While it is dissolving I spend 5 minutes pressing the ginger bits with a spoon, getting out every bit of juice.

    Using a funnel, pour the ginger syrup into the plastic 2-liter bottle. Give the 2-cup yeast & water mixture a quick whisk and pour into the funnel after it. Add 2 tablespoons of lemon juice and 3 more cups of water. I usually mix the lemon juice into the water first, but it doesn’t really matter. This means you’ve put in 7 cups of water, total. Oh, and the 1/2 cup that made the syrup.

    Cap off the bottle and give it a good shake to mix it up. Put this bottle at room temperature for 2 days or so. You’ll want to give it a slight shake every day and check it for stiffness. Also, keep this bottle in another container, just in case it springs a leak. If you try to squeeze the bottle and it has absolutely no give, you probably want to put it in the fridge. Depending on the temperature this could happen in a matter of 24 hours, but most likely it will take 48. Recently during really warm weather the yeasts got really crazy and my ginger ale tasted more like funky yeast than ginger.

    This ginger beer needs to be refrigerated before you can open the bottle. Carbon dioxide will only stay suspended in cold liquid, so any attempt to open this while warm will make a fizzy mess and give you flat ginger ale. As it is, you’ll need to crack this open slowly to release the pressure. Once it is cold, make sure you open it once a day, just to release the pressure that will still be building up.

    This recipe mostly stolen from Alton Brown [ Food Network: Alton Brown Ginger Ale ]

     
    • Salvin 2:17 pm on September 4, 2010 Permalink

      Why do you avoid HFCS?

    • Rex 1:10 pm on September 21, 2010 Permalink

      I don’t think it is inherently evil, I just see it and think that someone is trying to use the cheapest ingredients possible and is trying to overload their product with sugar to preserve it and to sweeten it to death. I also do not support the subsidization of field corn. I think we, as a country, are producing way too much corn.

  • Rex 10:52 am on February 23, 2010 Permalink | Reply
    Tags: Cooking   

    What I Cooked Last Night 

    Yesterday I felt like having an egg salad sandwich. So, I made mayonaise. Just for good measure I added some pressed garlic into the mayo. Then I realized I was going to have too much mayonaise. So I looked for other ways to use it. I found inspiration in Ratio to put citrusey mayo on fish. I bought some rainbow trout and zested some lemon into a bit of my mayonaise. I rinsed and dried the fish, put it on some foil and slathered it with mayonaise. (this is where I forgot to season the fish, I should have, before the mayo went on) This wasn’t gross, I promise. I broiled the fish until I could see the thickest parts were opaque and the mayo was blistering but not burnt. I moved the fish away from the broiler at one point to help prevent burning the mayonaise.

    At the store I picked up some redskinned potatoes. I rinsed, cut and boiled them in salted water. Then I softened some scallions in clarified butter and tossed the potatoes in the hot pan.

    Lastly, I cooked a minced shallot in plenty more clarified butter, added some sliced button mushrooms and salt, cooked most of the liquid out and then added some sliced bok choy. Into this I tossed some red pepper flakes to give it some spice. I didn’t add anything else to this and it was good, but it could have maybe used some lemon juice or a fresh herb to give it a more interesting flavor.

    The fish with mayo was good. I wouldn’t have done this with store-bought mayonaise, but with homemade it didn’t have that heavy mouth feel that mayonaise sometimes has. The lemon flavor came out and was delicious.

    I still haven’t had that egg salad. Maybe tonight.

     
  • Rex 11:48 pm on January 27, 2010 Permalink | Reply
    Tags: Cooking, potatoes   

    Cornish Game Hen & Fingerling Potatoes 

    A few things came together to make dinner tonight. 1) I had a cornish game hen in the freezer from class last semester. 2) I’d been reading What Einstein Told His Cook and saw a recipe for a cornish game hen basted in soy sauce. 3) I had the Tare from the Momofuku book in the fridge and figured it would be well-served in that basting liquid. 4) I saw that video from goop.com earlier this week where gweneth paltrow cooks some fingerling potatoes in a very similar style to Heston Blumenthal. It involves a pre-boil and a long roast to get crispy baked potatoes. kinda.
    Peeling fingerlings is a pain in the ass, it gave me cramps in my hands. I peeled the fingerlings and boiled them in some salty water for about 8 minutes. Then I strained them and beat them around in the colander to give them some rough edges. Then I tossed them in olive oil and threw them in a square pyrex baking dish to serve as the base for my cornish game hen.

    The game hen was brined in a quart of water with a 1/4 cup of both brown sugar and kosher salt. I left it in the fridge for about an hour. Meanwhile I threw together 1/4 cup of tare plus a little bit of soy sauce, 1Tbs or so of peanut oil, about 1Tbs each garlic and ginger, roughly chopped. I put all this together in the cup that came with our immersion blender and blitzed it up good. It came out opaque and creamy looking. the ginger and garlic pieces totally disappeared. You can barely see the bits on the surface of the raw game hen. I rinsed the game hen and stuffed it with some random fresh herbs. sage, rosemary and thyme, I think. I put the cornish hen on top of the potatoes, breast side down, and brushed it with the tare/soy mixture. Into a 400° oven it went.

    Every 10 minutes I opened the oven and basted on more of the soy & tare mixture. After 30 minutes I flipped the bird breast side up and basted it again. Repeat this process until the bird looks like it might start burning, or an hour has gone by. I also put a 1/4 cup of water into the dish if the juices in the dish were burning, or starting to. Normally I’d check the temperature, but after an hour at 400°, this bird is cooked. I removed the bird and let it rest on a plate. I tossed the potatoes a bit in the pan and put them back in the oven to crisp up a bit more while the meat had a rest.

    Actually, I didn’t love this meal. The flavor of the skin was a bit overwhelming. Way too much salt/soy flavor going on, and this is from someone who loves salt. The potatoes weren’t crispy, but they were excellent. The cornish game hen did have just about the perfect amount of meat for me, but it seems like a ridiculously tiny bird to bother cooking. This dinner needed something green, I think. But a dinner cooked is a good dinner.

     
  • Rex 9:49 pm on January 25, 2010 Permalink | Reply
    Tags: Cooking, momofuku   

    Momofuku Taré (yakitori sauce) 

    In my attempt to create Momofuku Ramen from the Momofuku cookbook, I first had to make taré sauce. This sauce involves roasting bones and then simmering them in mirin, sake, and soy sauce. The final product was meaty and delicious. The momofuku recipe calls for roasting chicken backs, I didn’t have any but I did have a duck carcass and a turkey backbone, so that is what I used!

    Chop up the bones from 2-3 chicken backs, or use duck parts or turkey parts or whatever poultry bones you have. Extra meat and skin is good, too. Put them in an oven-proof saute pan or pot. Roast in a 400˚ oven for 45 minutes or so. You want the parts well browned, but not black at all. Take your bones out of the oven and put them on the stovetop over medium heat. Splash about ½ cup of sake into the pan and use it to scrape the brown bits off the bottom of the pan. Once all the brown bits are up, add another ½ cup of sake, 1 cup of mirin, and 2 cups low-sodium soy sauce. Stir this into the pan, kick up the heat, bring this to a boil and then reduce the heat to a slight simmer. Let this cook for an hour. Pick out the bones and strain through some cheesecloth.

    I used some duck parts so I had a bit of extra fat in the sauce that I needed to pour off.

    This stuff is salty and amazing. I can’t wait to use it.

     
  • Rex 5:36 pm on January 23, 2010 Permalink | Reply
    Tags: Cooking   

    Cinnamon-Nut Granola 

    Take 4 cups oats (old-fashioned rolled), 1 cup chopped almonds, 1 cup dry roasted peanuts, 1 cup flaked coconut (unsweetened) and toss it together in a really big bowl.

    Melt 1 stick of butter and stir in 1-1/2 tsp cinnamon, 1/2tsp salt and 1/2 cup honey. Pour this over the oat mixture and toss it all together by hand. Put this on a rimmed baking pan and put it into a 300 degree oven. Stir this on the pans every 10 minutes or so, until it is a nice even golden brown, probably 35 minutes.
    While it is cooling, roughly chop the dried fruit: 1/2 cup each of golden raisins, apricots, cherries, and cranberries.
    Once the oats are cooled, toss it all together in your big bowl and store in an airtight container. Eat it with milk or yogurt or ice cream.

    Taken from the King Authur Whole Grain Baking book.

     
  • Rex 10:00 pm on January 18, 2010 Permalink | Reply
    Tags: breakfast, Cooking,   

    Chocolate Steel Cut Oats 

    This steel cut oats recipe from thekitchn interested me. I usually eat steel cut oats using this recipe from Mark Bittman: Coconut Oat Pilaf. Normally when I make it I wish there weren’t so many ingredients and that it didn’t turn out so awesome, justifying all the work. This one is simpler, and almost as delicious, just in a totally different way.

    Bring almost 3 cups of water to a boil. I use less, I like my oats dryer. Dump in 1 cup steel-cut oats, some salt, 2 teaspoons each espresso and cocoa powder. Stir and bring it back to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook until done. Maybe 20 minutes? Once most of the water is gone you can just turn it off, cover it, and let it soak up the rest of the water. It is also great to do the night before, it keeps in the fridge for more than a few days. Oh, once it’s all finished cooking, stir in 1 tablespoon of sugar. More if you like it sweeter. Or use honey. or whatever you like that is sweet. Eat this in the morning, plain or with nuts or coconut in it. Totally awesome.

    Based on this recipe: Mocha Crunch Oatmeal.

     
  • Rex 9:16 pm on August 8, 2009 Permalink | Reply
    Tags: Cooking,   

    Chickpea-Carrot-Olive salad 

    the Once Upon A Tart version

    This comes from Once Upon A Tart…, the cookbook, and the restaurant. Erin and I happened upon it when we were looking for breakfast in New York. We ordered some quiche and tart and this salad. I took a cameraphone pic of the book and could only decipher the ingredient list, so here is what I did with that:


    Grate 3 or 4 medium carrots into a large bowl. Take a handful of mixed olives (about a cup, with pits) and pit and rough chop them and add them to the bowl. Finely chop almost a full bunch of cilantro and two scallions, into the bowl. Rinse and drain two cans of chickpeas, mix into the bowl. Stir this up really well, making sure all the ingredients are well distributed.

    For the dressing, in a smaller bowl: One or two cloves of garlic, finely minced. the zest and juice of one lemon. 2Tbls ground cumin, 2tsp paprika, a strong dash of red cayenne, 2tsp salt, generous grind of pepper. Whisk this until combined. Whisk vigorously and add in 3Tbs of olive oil.

    mix the dressing into the salad, cover with plastic wrap and put in the fridge for an hour before serving.

     
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